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Bladed Turbine
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A new commercial or industrial wind turbine ought to require little or no maintenance. Manufacturers construct twenty-first century wind turbine blades from composite materials, so that they will not corrode or require replacement; new blades ought to withstand even torturous conditions with little or no routine care. Similarly, reliable wind turbine builders fashion the latest generation of nacelles from rustproof or rust resistant alloys and powder coat the units for maximum durability; the units seal tightly, protecting the working parts inside. And, as with most major machinery, an ordinary wind turbine user will find no user-serviceable parts inside the nacelle. If the unit fails, it will require professional service. Even with all these features designed and guaranteed to keep your wind turbine running smoothly and reliably, the system still requires routine maintenance.
Tower Safety: paramount in wind turbine maintenance
While you plan and prepare for your wind turbine's installation, take a course in and practice wind tower safety, because the majority of serious wind turbine injuries result from climbing accidents.
Always, as in always always, remember to take your first and most important safety precaution before you strap on your safety harness belt and take your first step up the tower: Shutdown the turbine and furl the blades before you ascend. If you leave the machine running, a sudden shift in the wind's direction can spin the blades right into you, slicing and dicing you as if you were so much meat and cheese for a chef's salad.
Invest in good fall protection equipment, especially including a good helmet. Although good safety harness will break your fall and protect most of your body, it will do nothing to keep your scull and brains intact. Rather than shopping for a hardhat, look at helmets for rock climbing or mountaineering, because they will have the design features you need. Put simply, a hard hat will fall off easily as they don't generally have chin straps. Getting ready to climb, remember to check your lanyard and harness before you strap-in; and, although it seems outrageously silly, make sure you strap-in correctly.
As you climb, work with a "spotter" who can alert you to dangerous conditions or potential problems. Depending on your tower's design and construction, you may have to check handholds and footsteps as you climb, repairing or correcting defects with nearly every step. As you climb, focus on your next move; do not look all the way to the tower's top, and steadfastly resist the urge to look down. Your brain and body can imagine you are on solid ground if you control where you direct your sight. When you reach the tower's top, stay focused on the maintenance tasks you must perform. Unless you know your capacities and limits, and unless you have a great deal of climbing experience, you should resist the nearly overwhelming urge to take-in the view from up there. And, as you descend, resist the temptation to slide or rappel down the tower; for most climbers, coming down is tougher than going up.
Take care of yourself up there.
The higher you climb, the more you expose yourself to the elements. Everything that persuaded you to mount your wind turbine way up in the air is everything that poses a safety risk. The wind blows harder and more steadily up there than it does on the ground, so the chill factor intensifies. Even if your routine maintenance requires relatively delicate work with nuts, bolts, caps, and wires, protect your hands from cold...or heat. In the winter, frostbite can set-in within just a few minutes of removing your gloves. Use gloves with clips if it's cold so won't drop them. No matter what season you climb the tower, make sure you stay hydrated, because dehydration mimics intoxication. Also, make sure you stay nourished, because a sugar lull will affect your concentration, balance, and coordination.
Yes, every windsmith has more than a little cowboy in him, and the guys in the crew compete fiercely to see who emerges as "the alpha dog." Know both your body's limits and the limits of your luck. Sometimes, routine wind turbine maintenance does require calculated risk; it never requires recklessness.
Intuition taught you these fundamental Truths of wind turbine maintenance before you even came on the job. While you do the job, use what you know.
Ray Kari is an alternative energy enthusiast. For more great tips on Wind Turbine Maintenance please visit http://windpowerproguide.com
How to Build a Small Wind Turbine - Step by Step Instructions
Step by Step Instructions for making your own 4/6 foot Wind Turbine
Making a wind powered generator from scrap materials is very rewarding and empowering. Most of the tools and materials you need, can be found in your local hardware shop or junk pile. We highly recommend you search your local dump and/or junkyards for the materials required. For the wind turbine I built with these instructions, I picked up the motor on eBay for $10 plus shipping and the PVC pipe for the blades from a junk pile. The tail is made from an old roller paint pan.
Safety should be your highest priority. Human life is more important than electricity, so please work safely.
SUPPLIES
A 260 VDC, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub is best suited for a small wind turbine. These motors are available from most motor surplus stores and on eBay. You can get about 7 amps in a 30 mph wind. In other words, it is a simple, cheap little machine to get you started.
You may use any other simple permanent magnet DC motor that returns at least 1 V for every 25 rpm and can handle upwards of 10 amps. If you do, there will be certain changes to this supply list, for example, you may need to find a hub - a circular saw blade with a 5/8" shaft adaptor will usually work well as a hub.
Tools
- Drill & Bits
- Jigsaw with a metal blade
- Wrench
- Flat Head Screwdriver
- Crescent Wrench
- Vise and/or Clamp
- Wire Strippers
- Tape Measure
- Marker Pen
- An extra person helps a lot!
Mount
- Square Tubing or "L" tubing
- Floor Flange - or a rotating dolly wheel with a hole in the centre (picture the wheels on a grocery
- 4 inch Nipple
- 3 X 3/4 Self-tapping Screws
- Note: if using a dolley wheel, you won't need the nipple and flange as the dolley wheel bolts to the tower and to the DC motor directly.
Motor
- 260 VDC, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub
- 30 - 50 Amp Blocking Diode (one-way)
- 2 - 5/16 x 3/4 Motor Bolts
- PVC Pipe - to cover the motor
Tail
- 1 sqft (approx) lightweight material (metal) - used roller paint tray will work
- 2 - 3/4 Self-tapping Screws
Blades
- 24" length of 8" PVC Pipe (if it is UV resistant, you will not need to paint it
- 6 - 1/4 X 20 Bolts
- 9 - 1/4 washers
- 3 sheets A4 paper and tape
Cutting The Blades - makes 8 blades (or 2+ blade sets) and a thin waste strip.
Read through the instructions a couple of times. I have created a separate page, with pictures, and expanded on this process for making the blades as itcan be difficult to understand these instructions without the illustrations. See the link at the bottom of this article.
- Place the 24" Length of PVC pipe and square tubing (or other straight edge) side by side on a flat surface. Push the pipe tight against the tubing and mark the line where they touch. This is Line A.
- Make a mark near each end of Line A, 23" apart.
- Tape 3 sheets of A4 paper together, so that they form a long, completely straight piece of paper. Wrap this around the section of pipe at each of the two the marks you just made, one then the other. Make sure the short side of the paper is straight along Line A and the paper is straight against itself where it overlaps. Mark a line along the edge of the paper at each end. Call one LineB and the other Line C.
- Start where Line A intersects Line B. Going left around Line B, make a mark at every 145 mm. The last section should be about 115 mm.
- Start where Line A intersects Line C. Going right around Line C, make a mark at every 145 mm. The last section should be about 115 mm.
- Mark each line using a straight edge.
- Cut along these lines, using the jigsaw, so that you have 4 strips of 145 mm and one strip about 115 mm.
- Take each strip and place them with the inside of the pipe facing down.
- Make a mark at one end of each strip 115 mm from the left edge.
- Make a mark at the other end of each strip 30 mm from the left edge.
- Mark and cut these lines, using the jigsaw.
Sanding the Blades
You should sand or grind the blades to achieve the desired airfoil. This will increase the efficiency of the blades, as well as making them quieter. The angled (leading) edge wants to be rounded, while the straight (tailing) edge wants to be pointed. Any sharp corners should be slightly rounded to cut down on noise.
Cutting The Tail
The exact dimensions of the tail are not important. You want about one square foot of lightweight material, preferably metal. You can make the tail any shape you want, so long as the end result is stiff rather than floppy.
Drilling Holes in Square Tubing - using the 5/16" drill bit
- Place the motor on the front end of the square tubing, so that the hub part hangs over the edge and the bolt holes of the motor face down.
- Roll the motor back so you can see the bolt holes, and mark their position on the square tubing.
- Drill a 5/16" hole at each mark all the way through the square tubing.
Drilling Holes in Blades - using the 1/4" drill bit
- Mark two holes at the wide end and along the straight edge of each of the three blades. The first hole should be 3/8" from the straight edge and 1/2" from the bottom. The second hole should be 3/8" from the straight edge and 1 1/4" from the bottom.
- Drill these 6 holes.
Drilling and Tapping Holes in Hub - using the 7/32" drill bit and 1/4" tap
NOTE: You may want to modify these instructions. Try replacing the hub with an old, used 7 1/4 inch skill saw blade. The larger surface area will give you more space to screw or bolt the blades to. I also used 1/4 inch bolts rather than tapping holes. I've also see old aluminum frying pans used for this purpose. They are light and solid!
- If the Treadmill motor comes with the hub attached, take it off, hold the end of the shaft (which comes through the hub) firmly with pliers, and turn the hub clockwise. This hub unscrews clockwise, which is why the blades turn counter-clockwise.
- Make a template of the hub on a piece of paper, using a compass and protractor.
- Mark 3 holes, each of which is 2 3/8" from the center of the circle and equidistant from each other.
- Place this template over the hub and punch a starter hole through the paper and onto the hub at each hole.
- Drill these holes with the 7/32" drill bit.
- Tap the holes with the 1/4" x 20 tap.
- Bolt the blades onto the hub using the 1/4" bolts. At this point, the outer holes have not been drilled.
- Measure the distance between the straight edge of the tips of each blade. Adjust them so that they are all equidistant. Mark and punch each hole on the hub through the empty hole in each blade.
- Label the blades and hub so that you can match which blade goes where at a later stage.
- Remove the blades and then drill and tap these outer three holes.
You now have all the parts you need. For final assemble instructions (and a review of the above instructions with lots of pictures) please take a look at this website: http://www.greenterrafirma.com/DIY_Wind_Turbine.html.
It includes several more pictures to aid with the final assembly and an additional section on Towers. These plans are provided free of charge.
Enjoy!
About the Author
Bruce Knight is editor and a contributing author for the GreenTerraFirma.com website. He is active in alternative energy (solar) and natural alternatives to commercial products. GreenTerraFirma.com contains many additional articles of a similar nature to this. Visit GreenTerraFirma.com. http://www.greenterrafirma.com/DIY_Wind_Turbine.html.
Does anyone know where to find cheap three-bladed wind turbine kits? ?
I need to buy five wind turbine kits for a classroom experiment, but I don't know where to find suitable ones. The wind turbines must have three-blades. And it would be best if each was cheap. =)
Not sure how cheap is 'cheap' but look at these designed for just your purpose.
Gurnee waives alt-energy ban for business plaza
Gurnee Village Board trustees Monday night agreed to waive a moratorium on alternative energy devices for a company that wants to install solar panels on the roof of a business plaza where it would open a showroom.
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